Lead-Based Paints in Period Properties
Navigating the complexities of period property ownership often includes discovering old historic paint coatings which can sometimes contain traces of lead. Down here in Heritage Lane, we offer expert guidance to help you understand, manage, and mitigate the risks associated with lead-based paints in older buildings.
Lead Based Paints
Lead paint or lead-based paint is Paint containing lead as pigments: lead chromate, "chrome yellow", lead oxide "red lead") Lead carbonate and " white lead" are the most common forms. Lead was added to paint to accelerate drying times and to also increase durability, maintain a fresh appearance, and resist moisture that causes corrosion. It is one of the main health and environmental hazards associated with paint. Lead paint has been generally phased out of use due to the toxic nature of lead. Alternatives such as water-based, lead-free paints are readily available.
In some countries, lead still continues to be added to paint intended for domestic use, whereas countries such as the USA and the UK have regulations prohibiting its use. However, someone may have gone on a booze cruise to Belgium and been tempted to buy some duty free paints while they were there and then bring those paints back with them to save a few pounds, and Lead paints are still available to buy in Belgium, so food for thought!
lead paint may still be found in older properties painted prior to the introduction of such regulations. Although lead has been banned from household paints in the United States and the UK it can still be purchased in the. UK for use in some agricultural, and commercial buildings.
History
Lead was being used as far back as the 4th century BC (so Almost 2500 years ago) The traditional method of making the pigment was called the stack process. Hundreds or thousands of earthenware pots containing vinegar and lead were embedded in a layer of either tan bark or cow manure. The pots were designed so that the vinegar and lead were in separate compartments, but the lead was in contact with the vapor of the vinegar. The lead was usually coiled into a spiral and placed on a ledge inside the pot. The pot was loosely covered with a grid of lead, which allowed the carbon dioxide formed by the fermentation of the tan bark or the dung to circulate in the pot. Each layer of pots was covered by a new layer of tan, then another layer of pots. The heat created by the fermentation, acetic vinegar vapor, and carbon dioxide within the stack did their work, and within a month the lead coils were covered with a crust of white lead. This crust was separated from the lead, washed, and ground for pigment. This was an extre mely dangerous process for the workmen. Medieval texts warned of the danger of "apoplex, epiepilepsy, and paralysis" from working with lead white.
In 1786, Benjamin Franklin wrote a letter warning a friend about the hazards of lead and lead paint, which he considered well-established. Despite the risks, the pigment was very popular with artists because of its density and opacity; a small amount could cover a large surface. It was widely used by artists until the 19th century, when it was replaced by zinc white and titanium white.
The dangers of lead paints were considered well-established by the beginning of the 20th century. In July 1904 Sherwin Williams reported on the dangers of paints containing lead, noting that a French expert had deemed lead paints "poisonous in a large degree, both for the workmen applying theses paints and for the subsequent )inhabitants of a house painted with lead paints", and as early as 1886, German health laws prohibited women and children from working in factories processing lead paints.
The league of Nations first made efforts to ban lead paints in 1921.
Toxicity
Lead paint is hazardous. It can cause nervous system damage, stunted growth, kidney damage, and delayed development. It is associated with high violent crime rates. It is dangerous to children because it tastes sweet. Lead paint can cause reproductive problems, including a decrease in sperm concentration in men. Lead is also considered a likely carcinogen. High levels of exposure can be lethal. Several methods exist to test for the presence of lead in paint, including analysis in a laboratory and various at-home tests, with varying efficacies. Spot test kits for lead are sold to consumers, but were found by one study to have high error rates.
Advice for Homeowners
If you find that you definitely do have lead-based paint in your period property (and no, we don 't mean that you, listened to another armchair expert rattling on about this colour and that colour, or this year and that year, we mean you have tested it and the test has co firmed it)
the first step is to get it tested. Avoid disturbing the paint, and if you have young children or are pregnant, take extra precautions to prevent exposure. Initially you can purchase DIY test kits from the likes of Amazon online, and even B&Q just to either confirm or exclude your suspicions - don't be fooled by today's "armchair experts" telling you that only certain colours can contain historic lead, for the sake of around £10, just buy a test kit!
Today's Arm Chair experts are actually quite worrying, we see so much which is written online these days by people who we immediately see really have no idea of what they are advising and clearly have no background in construction. Let alone in historical works. To quote an old mi's quoted saying: "A little knowledge is a dangerous thing" - we often see people these days writing advice that even some of our old 1st year students would have laughed at. Maybe there is a yearn to belong in the 'in crowd' for many today, but you must remember that the wrong advice can be life changing for you and you loved one's, so tread carefully!
In the United Kingdom, lead paint wasn't banned from sale to the general public until 1992, except for specialist uses, in fact we were still using red lead and calcium plumbate metal primers daily back in the 1980's and they are not seen as "old" "period" "listed" or "traditional builds" we used lead based paints simply because they were absolutely fantastic products which gave brilliant coverage, brilliant substrate obliteration, and fabulous corrosion
protection properties (we're just telling the truth so don't think we are now promoting their uses! (But just ask yourself how many armchair experts that are giving their online expertise can truthfully say that have 'been there, and done that? We can.
Some Top Free Tips To help You.
If you find, following confirmed testing, that you have lead based paint in your home
lDon't panic!
the main issue is any dust created whilst abrading and preparing your substrates (surfaces)l for redecoration, so of course you will straight away think of a face mask , which is correct!
But because of having a very large depth of knowledge in paint application systems and methods we prefer to simply eradicate the risk of dust!
Wet Flatting
"Wet flatting" is a term commonly used in the vehicle refinishing industry and involves using an abrasive paper known to lay people as 'wet or dry'. However It's correct name is 'Silicone carbide abrasive paper' and it can be used either wet or dry, hence the origin otbthe term "wet or dry"
- One bucket of warm soapy water
- A selection of varying grades of silicone carbide abrasive paper.
- Some 'washing up gloves'
- And abrade the lead based paints using this method:
- Put the gloves on
- Completely submerse the silicone carbide paper into the warm soapy water. (Alternatively "scotchbrite pads" can be used in place of silicone carbide)
- Abrade the substrate while "wet"
- Dry off the areas with preferably a Chamois leather but paper towel or microfibre cloths will also work.
- Rinse the silicone carbide abrasive paper in the warm soapy water again.
- Repeat the process until all you preparation is. Completed.
We'll explain further
The warm water stops your hands from becoming cold and less responsive (Health &Safety) washing up gloves help to keep any lead contaminated water from penetrating. though your hands and wrists through pores in youtr skin.
The soap (which can be any liquid soap; cheap washing up liquid is perfectly fine) helps as a lubricant while you are abrading, plus it also degreases and cleans the substrate being abraded which provides a great surface in readiness for your new paint coatings to adhere to.
Silicone carbide abrasive papers can be bought in all Halfords shops, aswell as online (Ebay, Amazon etc)
"Scotch Brite" pads are readily available abrasive alternatives which are easily found on Amazon and in most of today's high street supermarkets in the form of washing up 'sponges' and for those who are not familiar with this term, Scotch Brite is the 'pot scrubbing side on common washing up sponges (normally yellow or green in colour) so there's another cheap tip - use your pot scrubbers as abrasives with attached sponges for mopping up!
Scotch Brites are incredibly helpful on moulded areas such as skirting tops, door architraves, and door panel mouldings so always have some ready to go in your Decorating box.
Below are some pics to make life even easier for you, right click or click and hold for further options:
